Lviv (Lvivska Oblast)

Phone Code: 04622

Introduction

Best website with current information on Lviv: http://www.inlviv.info/

History

The earliest documentation of Lviv goes back to 1256.

Lviv is located in Western Ukraine, a region where Ukrainian culture survived even in the face of Soviet domination. Lviv remains the cultural, political and economic heart of the region. Embedded in this culture is not only Ukrainian heritage but that of Austria, Hungary, Poland, Germany and Russia – each of which politically dominated the region at one time or another.

Lviv has retained an Eastern European historical flavor in its architecture and narrow, cobblestone streets. One can actually trace the history of the city through the diversity of architecture from the remains of fortress walls of the early city to the ornate buildings of the Austrian-Hungarian period to the stark functionalism of the Soviet times. Over the last few centuries, Lviv has miraculously been spared much of the invasion and war that destroyed many Ukrainian cities.

Lviv's historic churches, buildings and relics date back to the 13th century. The city center was proclaimed a national architectural preserve in the 1970s and is small enough to cover on foot.

Sights

A recommendation is to go to a tour company such as Meest located next to the monument of the seated Hurshevsky at the end of Prospect Shevchenka where employees speak various languages and can organize with a day's notice a walking tour of the city or other more specialized excursions in the language of one's choice.

General highlights:

Walk the main street called Prospect Svobody which means "Avenue of Freedom." This wide street runs about one third of a mile, north from Miskevitz Square (monument to Polish poet/nationalist) to the Opera House. All year round you may find gatherings of people on the prospect chatting, playing chess or singing. In the center of this avenue is a sculpture of Ukrainian poet and artist, Taras Shevchenko standing next to a depiction of Ukrainian history. This monument is often referred to as the "Wave of Freedom" because of its symbolic design.

The Lviv Opera House is a famous monument found on the back of a 20 UAH bill. It was built in 1900 and is representative of the Austro-Hungarian architecture of its time. The Opera House has its own ballet and opera company as well as hosts traveling companies from other CIS countries and Russia. For ticket information, call 72 88 60 or 72 86 72. A list of performances is always on display on the front of the Opera House.

To the east of Prospect Svobody is Ploshcha Rynok or Market Square, the center of the Old Town area. In the Middle Ages, the nobility built their homes around the square. This was the commercial center of Lviv and remained so through 1900. Many structures have been restored and are now used as shops, bars, galleries and restaurants. In the center of the square, is the City Council's Office and Office of the Mayor. This high tower overlooks the entire city. Tickets to the tower can be purchased at the ticket office located on the south side of the building, downstairs. (Note: office open sporadically due to construction.)

Another great view of Lviv can be seen from Visoky Zamok or High Castle, a hill offering a panoramic view of the city and an opportunity to view the remains of the 14th century fortress built on this site. To find High Castle, continue your trek east through the old city and follow the hills into the park.

If churches interest you, there are many old, beautiful ones to see in Lviv. The Roman Catholic Cathedral located on Kafedralna Square was constructed in the 14th century and features beautiful frescoes. Open everyday 8:00 to 18:00. Attached to the Cathedral is the Campiani Chapel added in 1619. Behind the Cathedral is the Bouim Chapel from the early 17th century whose dome features an image of Christ in an unusual pose, sitting and thinking wearing his crown of thorns. Open 10:00 to 17:00 except Sundays and Mondays.

Lviv's oldest churches are located on Khmelnytsky Boulevard. The first is St. Nicholas Church, the first church in Lviv built in the 13th century and restored in the 17th century. The next is St. Onuphrius Church built in the 13th century and used until recently as the printing museum of Ivan Fedorov who established the first permanent printing shop on Ukrainian territory in Lviv in 1574. The third is the Church of St. Paraskeva-Pyatnytsya, a Ukrainian Orthodox church first built in the 13th century, later reconstructed in the 17th century into a fortress-like structure highly ornamented with over 70 icons.

There are also some interesting museums in Lviv such as the Antique Pharmacy Museum (Drukarska Street, 2) which displays a wide assortment of antique pharmaceutical equipment in the back rooms of a functioning pharmacy. Post cards are available there in packages of 10 for 1 UAH. Open weekdays 9:00 to 17:00 and Saturdays and Sundays 10:00 to 17:00. Phone: 72 00 41 (also a working pharmacy!).

The Arsenal Museum (Pidvalna Street, 5) houses several excellent collections of ancient weapons such as spears, shields, pistols and guns. Open every day 10:00 to 17:15 except Wednesdays. Phone 72 19 01.

The Lviv Historical Museum (at 4, 6 and 24 Ploshcha Rynok) has almost 300,000 items showing the city's history beginning from the 13th century. The collection is housed in three Renaissance buildings. The Kornyact Mansion features a three-tiered Italian Renaissance courtyard which now also serves as a cafe's Phone 72 06 71. All locations open every day 10:00 to 18:00 except Wednesdays.

The Lviv Picture Gallery (Stefanika Street, 3) houses European masterpieces including works by Rembrandt, Reubens and Goya. Open every day 10:00 to 17:00 except Mondays. Phone 72 39 48.

The Museum of Ukrainian Architecture and Lifestyles or "Shevchenkivsky Hay" (Chernecha Hora, 1) is an open-air museum divided into miniature villages representing areas of Western Ukraine. Open every day 11:00 to 19:00 except Mondays. Phone 71 80 17.

The National Museum (Drahamanova Street, 42) has the most comprehensive collection of every type of Ukrainian art from the 14th to 21st century. Open 10:00 to 18:00 except Fridays. Phone 72 80 63.

The Ukrainian Ethnographic and Handicrafts Museum (Prospect Svobody, 15) features a collection of decorated eggs and embroidered ceremonial towels or "rushnyky." Open 10:00 to 18:00 except Mondays and Tuesdays. Phone 72 78 08.

The open-air museum, Shevchenkivsky Hay, offers rolling hills and paths that take a visitor through old houses and churches from almost every region of Ukraine. This popular location on Easter Sunday is the center of the holiday's cultural activity. Take Tram #7 or #2 up Lychakivska Street, getting off before Mechnikova Street.

Lychakiv Cemetery features the gravesites of war veterans from both Ukraine and Poland. Many famous Ukrainian figures are buried here and the cemetery is worth seeing if only to admire the beautiful sculptures that adorn the graves. Take Tram #7 to Mechnikova Street, getting off at the entrance to the cemetery. (Look for flower sales people.)

Other popular sites to see are: The Armenian Church, Lviv National University in the name of Ivan Franko (350 years old), Lviv Polytechnic University, Gunpowder Tower, the Royal Arsenal and Museum, the top of City Hall (Ratushka) and Strysky Park.

Places to Eat

There are numerous cafes outside of the center that may be dark and smoky, but offer very inexpensive authentic Ukrainian meals. Great for the super budget-minded. Prices are less than 10 UAH for a full meal.

Amadeus: High end restaurant featuring Ukrainian and European cuisine. Nice in summer with outdoor terrace. English menu. Inside live music on weekends. Located on Kafedralana Street across from the Roman Catholic Church.

There are numerous cafes outside of the center that may be dark and smoky, but offer very inexpensive authentic Ukrainian meals. Great for the super budget-minded. Prices are less than 10 UAH for a full meal.

Drakon: This authentic Chinese restaurant has good food. The fried Chinese bread and dumplings are recommended. Beer is cheap but the decor is plain. Located at Chuprynky Street, 22, from the fork where Stepan Bandery and Chuprynky Streets split (the start of Chuprynky Street) go 2 blocks. It is on that corner.

Evropa Cafe: A small, elegant higher end restaurant with a pleasant interior and outdoor seating in summer. English menu. Accepts Visa and Mastercard. Located on Prospect Shevchenko, 16. Open Monday to Friday 8:00 to 23:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 to 23:00. Phone 72 58 62.

George: The George Hotel has two main dining rooms. English menu. The beautiful Oriental Room is open 7:00 to 19:00 (proclaimed best breakfast in Lviv by Lonely Planet) and the main dining room from 12:00 to 23:00 and features live music in the evening. Located at Mitskevychy Square, 1. Phone 78 34 52.

Grand: The Grand Hotel has a dining room and bar. At the bar, one is able to order American style hamburgers for 12 UAH. The dining room is an elegant setting for excellent Ukrainian and European cuisine but is one of the most expensive restaurants in Lviv. English menu. Visa and Mastercard are accepted. Located on Prospect Svobody, 19. Open everyday 7:00 to 24:00. Phone 72 40 91.

Kupol: This cute, hillside restaurant has an interior full of antiques and old photographs and a beautiful outdoor garden to sit in for lunch or an early dinner featuring traditional Ukrainian food and a wide range of classic wines. English menu. They stop seating at 20:00. Located at Chaikovskoho Street, 37. Phone 74 42 54.

Pizza Pepperoni: If you are interested in wandering out of the center a bit, than you must come here for their delicious fresh pizzas with all the toppings you could ask for. Great atmosphere and beer on tap. English menu. Located on Ivan Franko Street, next to the Hotel Buergher. Accessible by Tram 1 or 9.

Seina Plyashka: Rooska Street (second entrance to the right on the SE corner of Ploscha Rynok). Entrance is marked with a cherub and blue wine bottle. Arguably the best atmosphere in Lviv. Features extensive wines, toasted sandwiches, and fondue. Fondue for two ranges from 35-75 UAH. Open 7 days a week 11 am to 11pm. Seating is limited.

Sport Cafe: 23 Hmelnetskoho Street, ph: 96-57-27. Find Hmelnetskoho Street to the right of the bazaar, behind the opera house, cafe is three blocks down to your right. Modest food, but good prices and sports is always playing on the two TVs.

Vidkrite Cafe: Beginning of Doroshenka Street (coming from Shevchenko statue) on the right hand side. Cafe features Ukrainian and Ukr-pean dishes and a good student atmosphere. Open 7 days a week until 11pm. Prices 10-15 UAH for full meal.

Vienna Cafe: This Viennese coffee house and restaurant has billiards, outdoor cafe and a comfortable dining room with live music in the evenings. English menu. Located on Prospect Svobody, 12. Phone 97 17 95.

Veronika: This sister restaurant to Amadeus has a wonderful pastry shop and outdoor cafe upstairs. Downstairs in the cavernous dining room enjoy Ukrainian and European cuisine. English menu. Located on Prospect Shevchenko.

Zoloty Vepr: In Ploscha Rynok directly across from city hall with an Orange sign. Closes at 9 pm, open 7 days/week. Cuisine is Ukr-pean and Ukrainian. Prices are 10-20 UAH for a full meal.

Some cafes are great locations for just drinking and relaxing. Some of them are:

Deja vu: Relaxing atmosphere with music and drinks available. Located on Hrushevskoho Street in the middle of the street on the corner.

Ha Soborni: This cafe was made popular by the English speaking happy hours every Thursday from 6-10pm. Offers a non-smoking dining room, inexpensive local beers on tap and good, inexpensive Ukrainian food. Outdoor cafe in summer. Located in Halytska Square on Soborna Street.

Dzyha: This cafe is also an art gallery and an antique shop. Great coffee, tea and snacks as well as an assortment of alcoholic beverages. Outdoor seating in summer amid original works of art. It is situated at the very end of Virmenska Street.

Italian Courtyard: Inside the Lviv History Museum, this renovated courtyard has three stories of arcades and an antique store inside as well. Most pleasant in summer months when it is warm and brides come to take their photos. However, beware, recently it is common that the front desk charges an entrance fee to the building so it is recommended to make a trip out of it and see the museum and shops as long as you are having coffee. Located in Ploshcha Rynok, 6.

Tsukarnia: This sweet shop is a jewel in Lviv. Delicious coffee and pastries in the European style. Located on Staroyevraiska Street, 3, "behind" Amadeus. Phone 74 09 49.

Guinness: This bar offers Guinness on tap sometimes and has a clean, comfortable bar atmosphere. However, beware of grouchy old owners. Located on Stefan Bandery Street, 39. Phone 35 49 51.

Korzo Pub: Valova Street, just south of Ploscha Rynok, look for maroon front. Good western-style pub atmosphere. Dishes are Western and Ukr-pean cuisine (they have Buffalo Wings). Prices are 25-45 UAH for a full meal.

Nightlife

Discos:

Lyalka -- This disco bar is located beneath the puppet theater, hence its name "doll." They show movies on Tuesdays at 17:00. Saturday and Sunday there is a 10 UAH cover but nice atmosphere and good dancing. Frequented by students. Located in Danylo Halytsky Square, 1.

Picasso -- This disco-bar is very popular with young people. It can get crowded but offers inexpensive drinks and good music. On weekends there is typically at 20 UAH cover. Open 19:00 to 2:00 or later. Located on Zelena Street, 88.

Millennium -- The most popular dance club in the city. Located on Prospect Chornovola, 2. Phone 40 35 91.

San Remo/Beat -- Very popular with the young set, this club is a pizza place, bar, dance club, internet cafe, karaoke bar and outdoor beer garden. They also deliver! Located on Zelena Street, 14. Phone 78 17 78.

Music:

Lviv Opera House -- Located at the end of Prospect Svobody, this Lviv historical monument also has ballet and opera performances. See the front of the building for a schedule (information is printed in Ukrainian so you may need a translator). Tickets are approximately 20 UAH or more depending on the seats and the type of performance.

Lviv Philharmonic -- There are new concerts each week at very low prices (average ticket is about 5 UAH). The box office and theater are separate but both on Tchaikovsky Street right off Prospect Shevchenko.

Activities

For a taste of Poland, cross the border to Premeshyl. Take direct train or, for lower cost, marshrutka to the border. Marshrutkas leave from the main train station every 15 minutes or so. Take a marshrutka to Shahini, walk across the border and take short marshrutka to Premeshyl. Total cost, approximately $3. Time approximately 3 hours one way.

Castles of Lviv -- Most tourist agencies offer a "Golden Horseshoe" tour of the three main castles of the region. It is a nice day trip to see the Lviv region and also the castles have some interesting history although are mostly in disrepair. Be sure to lunch at the restaurant located inside Olesky Castle.

Artist market -- On Lecya Ukrainky Street beside the Opera House you will find a craft bazaar with paintings, Ukrainian painted eggs, embroidered cloths and clothing and other types of works. You can certainly practice your bargaining skills here. Open every day but usually a poor showing on rainy days and Mondays.

Festivals

Lviv follows most religious holidays as the rest of Ukraine. It is traditional on Easter for most people to visit Shevchenkivsky Hay and watch traditional dancing and entertainment. Most events are on Easter Monday but events are also happening on Sunday and Tuesday.

The Lviv Beer Festival occurs in the city center each year in June.

Also in June 27th is Youth Day filled with concerts and festivals followed by June 28th which is Constitution Day with further types of entertainment. Both days feature many events geared towards children.

Independence Day is August 24th and is marked by theater festivities, concerts and firework displays.

The Annual Book Forum occurs each year in autumn.

In October is the International Youth Theatre Festival (The Golden Lion) which is the only youth theater event in Lviv. The program includes theatrical performances, seminars and gatherings of theatrical companies. Also, excursions to local castles are organized.

During Christmas week, there are Christmas performances such as concerts and dancing in front of the Opera House on Prospect Svobody.

Travel

The main forms of transportation in the city limits of Lviv are: mini-shuttle bus (or marshrutka), trolleybus, tram or taxi. Marshrutkas cost 80 kopecks to go any distance (except between cities, towns or villages). The trolleybus and tram are always 50 kopecks. Taxis vary but within city limits, not trip should cost more than 15 UAH.

Lviv International Airport that services flights to and from Warsaw, Moscow and Frankfurt as well as daily flights from Kyiv and other major domestic locations. The Lviv airport is very accessible to the city center via Marshrutka 95, Trolleybus 9 or taxi (15-25 UAH to the Center).

The Lviv Train Station is itself a famous landmark of the city with its beautiful silver domed building. The train station services domestic travel to all regions of Ukraine and international travel to most of Eastern Europe and other CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States or former Soviet) countries. The train station can be reached via Marshrutkas 18, 47, 68, 67, 66, 2, 98, 34, 47A, 78, Tram 1 or 9 or taxi.

From Kyiv, there are daily trains that depart in the evening and arrive in Lviv in the early morning. Public transport begins in Lviv at 6 a.m. so early arriving trains are better serviced by taxis but early arrival often means a guarantee of water which, depending where you stay, may be shut off at 9 a.m. Trains depart to Kyiv three times a day in the evening with early morning arrival in the country's capital. Train tickets can be purchased at the station or in the city center at the Train Cashier or "Kasa" located on Hnatiuka Street off Prospect Svobody.

The main train station in Lviv is adjacent to a popular commuter rail station called Prymsky. The Prymsky station can be reached via Marshrutkas 29 or 29A, Tram 1 and 9 from the center and taxi. Prymsky station is walkable to the main station if necessary.

Buses are also a common form of transportation to and from Lviv however within the city limits, buses are not used due to narrow, cobblestone streets. Lviv has five bus terminals, each for different destinations. You can inquire about which terminal you need by calling the operator at 004 or by going to the Bus Cashier or "Kasa" located in the city center on Teatralna Street near the Opera House.

Where to Stay

All Lviv hotels require passport at check-in.

Dnister: This 4-star hotel overlooks the Ivan Franko Park in the downtown area and belongs to a chain of hotels for foreign tourists. The hotel was opened in 1983 and has been accepting official delegations, diplomats, businessman and tourists since that time. There are 171 rooms with single rooms at $70-80, double rooms at $70-82. Prices include breakfast. There is a restaurant, bar, parking lot, fully-equipped conference rooms, a business center and a service bureau. The Dnister's location offers a splended panorama of central Lviv. Multiple languages spoken. Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted. Located at Mateyka Street, 6. Phone 79 85 71. Dnister

Grand Hotel: This American style 4-star hotel was restored in 1988 by a Ukrainian-American joint venture company. It has 60 rooms and is the most central and most expensive hotel in the city. A single room costs $80, a double room $110, deluxe $120 and suites are $260. Prices include breakfast. There is a restaurant in the hotel with live music and a bar/cafe as well as a fitness center, entertainment center, business center and a travel agency which offers access to the exclusive Grand Hotel Car on the Kyiv-Lviv train. Multiple languages spoken. All major credit cards accepted. Located on Prospect Svobody, 13. Phone 76 90 60. Grand Hotel

Hotel George: This former Intourist hotel was built in 1897 and was recently restored to its classic beauty. Situated in the heart of the historical district, it has first class rooms (single $37, double $44 and suite $76), second class double rooms ($16) as well as deluxe and semi-deluxe rooms. It also has two bars, three restaurants, a casino, newspaper, money exchange, a hair salon and souvenir stand as well as in-house guide and interpreter services. English, German and Polish spoken. Visa and Mastercard accepted. Hotel George

Hetman: This hotel is not far from the city center and typically considered a business hotel. It has single rooms (144 UAH), double rooms (162 UAH), remodeled double rooms (232 UAH) and luxury suites (391 UAH). There are excursion services, a sun deck, dentist and notary. English, German and Polish spoken. Located a Volodymyr Veliky Street, 50. Phone 64 99 81. Hetman

Hotel Lviv: This hotel is situated in the city center near the Opera House. It is comfortable to get to by any means and features a restaurant, night club, bar, buffets on each floor, sauna, billiards, money exchange and other services. Single rooms with facilities are 72 UAH, with shared facilities 35 UAH; double rooms with facilities are 140 UAH, with shared 80 UAH; triples with shared facilities 90 UAH; luxury suites are 320 UAH. The Hotel Lviv is not "pretty" but it offers basic accommodations. Linen is provided. English, German and Polish are spoken. Located at Chornovil Avenue, 7. Phone 79 22 72.

Independence (Nezalezhnist): This economy hotel is situated in the city center. It has elevators, central heating and water and all rooms have facilities. Single rooms are 80 UAH, double rooms 84 UAH and luxury suites 200-240 UAH. English, German and Polish are spoken. Located at Tershakivtsi Street, 6A. Phone 75 72 14.

 



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